Nove, Italy

The annual spouses' club board trip to Nove, Italy was at the end of August! I visited with the club two years ago and was excited to visit again for some camaraderie and shopping. We left bright and early to caravan down.

We made one pit stop for lunch at a restaurant overlooking a beautiful lake. Once we arrived at Le Nove hotel and got settled, we immediately visited a couple local pottery shops. The first one was Edelweiss which has so many cute pieces. 

Another Nove favorite is the "chicken man" who offers a variety of chicken pitchers. I don't remember the story behind them, but there is a story. They come in several sizes with many different designs so everyone is sure to find one that suits them. Since my last visit, he had moved locations to the town center across from the tower. 

A new-to-me shop was the pewter store. I had LOW expectations for this shop thinking that it would be filled with a bunch of old people stuff. I was pleasantly surprised by the interesting variety of items. They must work with the local bases often because we found a ton of US military items like these decanters. 

I splurged for a single room on this trip and it was so worth it! This is the view from my room. Le Nove is a surprisingly modern hotel with air conditioning and a nice breakfast spread.

You cannot visit Italy without some wine tasting! Two of the ladies set up a visit to one of their favorite wine producers--Riva Granda. We planned to just stop and pick up some cases of wine, but they treated us to some snacks and a little tour of their vineyard. 

On our second evening in town we visited nearby Bassano del Grappa to walk around before heading to dinner at a nearby winery.

Our Trips & Tours chair set up a wine tasting at this local winery. I opted to be a DD for the night, so I did not have a chance to sample any of their wines, but the estate was lovely! It is owned by sisters; supporting a female owned company felt really good. 

Aside from pottery shopping, the big draw was a huge flohmarkt (flea market) in a nearby town. This market happens on the last Sunday of the month. When I say it's huge, I am not exaggerating. We spent hours walking around, haggling and enjoying gelato and did not even see all the booths. 

Two years ago when I visited Nove, a friend and I had hoped to visit the inside of the church that is located near the flohmarkt, but ran out of time. This year I made a point to check it out. 

I am not a big spender and came home with only a few treasurers from the weekend, but am really happy with all of them. I was extra excited to find the tiny greyhound figurine to gift to Charles. 

Christmas Markets of Northern Italy

After a break from travel due to Charles' work schedule, we resumed our vacation schedule with a trip to Christmas markets in the South Tyrol region. Most people think of Germany for their Christmas market visits, but with Northern Italy's German roots, they have some markets, too! 

We visited mostly to check out Bolzano (Bozen for the German spelling) which is Italy's oldest and largest Christmas market. But we also went to Merano, Brixen and Sterzing. 

I love searching for hotels. For our Northern Italy vacation, I chose Napura Art & Design Hotel. It was situated between Bolzano and Merano and surrounded by apple orchards. The included breakfast, free parking and beautiful rooms were a delight. Plus, they were dog friendly so Suzie was able to tag along! Charles made use of the sauna on one of the nights. I really should have, but spent my downtime working on schoolwork. (I'm so ready to be done with this program because having schoolwork while traveling is a little stressful!)

Before visiting any markets, we drove to Lana to walk along one of their trails. The path has sculptures to admire along the way, but we veered off the sculpture trail a bit so we missed quite a few of the pieces. The area had a dog park that Suzie enjoyed for a little while. The views of the mountains from all around us was fantastic! I kept imagining what it looks like in the spring and fall. I bet it's even more gorgeous!

Now onto the main reason for the visit... Christmas markets! Our first market visit was in Merano. The area lined the river which gave us some amazing picture opportunities! It was a beautiful, sunny day. We enjoyed some gluhwein (also known as vin brule); this was my favorite mug of regular weisse gluhwein. We had a a few snacks, browsed the booths and purchased a couple souvenirs. 

The next day it was time for the main event--Bolzano! Remember, this is Italy's oldest and largest Christmas market so we were expecting something pretty cool. They had some cute photo opportunities around the market including this one. The figures are from a company called Thun. I had never heard of them before, but their figures are proudly displayed and the ornament we chose was a Thun angel. 

Sadly, our expectations of the market were bigger than the market itself. My guess is that pre-COVID it was larger. It had maybe 30-40 booths and felt small. It probably did not help that it was chilly and gloomy. Charles had some gluhwein and I had some hot chocolate. We shared a chocolate covered pretzel. Otherwise, it was disappointing. We went inside the church shown behind me in this picture and we could have visited a number of museums in town, but I just wasn't feeling it. 

After the letdown of the Bolzano market, we stayed close to the hotel for dinner. The German-Italian spot called Restaurant Oberspeiser was down the road and ended up being very quaint and cozy. The food was tasty, too! We chose the knodel platter for two which consisted of 8 different knodel. Yum! 

Our third market in Italy was Brixen. It was a sunny, beautiful day! Knowing this market was going to be smaller than Bolzano, we went into it with lowered expectations. But this market was very cute! They had musicians playing from the stage in the center of the market and the view of the church steeple was charming. We tried Bombardino which is Italian's version of eggnog. It was very sweet, but I would not order it again. 

The market was filled with groups of school kids at the time we visited. They crowded around some of the booths which made it a little difficult to shop. I think they were also playing a scavenger hunt game. A group came up to ask us questions, but after learning we did not speak Italian they scuttled away to the next person. 

I did not see a lot of street art during our visit, but spotted this along our walk from the parking garage to the market. 

Our final Italian Christmas market was in Sterzing. This was a small market where I purchased some Alpaca socks. The booth owner promised me they are warm and they did not disappoint! We also enjoyed a hot apple drink with Amaretto.

Polenta is popular in this part of Italy, so I tried polenta with goulash at Sterzing's market. The meat could have been a bit more tender, but it was warm and filling. 

The area was beautiful and we loved seeing the snow capped mountains from pretty much every vantage point, but I would not necessarily recommend visiting the area JUST for Christmas markets. The markets were charming and had some good eats. They are a lovely bonus, but not a main attraction.

Southern Sicily

As a belated birthday celebration, we jetted off to southern Sicily for several nights. My interest in Sicily was twofold: 1) ancestors on my Dad's side were from Sicily (although it was a different part of the island than we visited) and 2) I wanted to visit somewhere sunny and warmer than Germany. 

We flew into Catania which is on the eastern side of the island. After picking up our rental car, we drove down to Syracuse where we had booked an Airbnb that overlooked the harbor. 

On our first full day, we walked around Ortigia which is the island connected to Syracuse by bridges. The views of the waves crashing were just what my heart needed. The day was perfectly sunny and warm. 

One of my goals in visiting Sicily was to eat arancini and cannoli. Check and check. We had arancini almost every day, but I did not have nearly enough cannoli. I would return to Sicily just for the food!

On our second day, we headed inland a bit to Caltagirone. The town is known for their pottery and we booked a pottery class through Airbnb. A master potter, pictured above, demonstrated some of the things they do to make pottery and then we had a chance to play around with clay and make two pieces. 

We each could make a mug/vase/jug using the coiling method and then a face mask. I made a vase, of sorts. The face masks were the silly part of the class. Pictured below is Charles' mask. At a certain point while making mine I came to terms with the fact that it was crazy and a bit ugly and just embraced it. 

For a few extra Euros, the shop will fire and glaze our pieces and ship them to us. The first firing takes two days, so there was no chance that they would be ready in time for our departure. I am looking forward to seeing the finished pieces!

Caltagirone has this long staircase in the center of town with each step featuring beautifully decorated tiles. 

Mt Etna is a dominating part of the landscape in southern Sicily and here you can see it from a park in Caltagirone.

You cannot visit Italy and not have a cappuccino for breakfast at least once!

Another excursion we took was to a nearby town--Noto. Noto is known for its Baroque architecture. We visited during reposo, the Italian version of a siesta, so it was quiet and sleepy. 

On Ortigia, you can see the ruins of the temple of Apollo. When we walked by one evening we saw this group of kitties hanging out on one of the columns. We actually saw stray cats in several areas of Syracuse and Caltagirone. 

On our evening stroll the day before departing, we could see Mt Etna smoking in the distance. It is hard to see in the picture, but it was neat to see in person. In this picture you can also see the steeple of one of Syracuses' churches that was constructed in the 60's which explains the style. 

Walking along the coastline was one of my favorite things and I wish I could have done more of it!