Southern Sicily

As a belated birthday celebration, we jetted off to southern Sicily for several nights. My interest in Sicily was twofold: 1) ancestors on my Dad's side were from Sicily (although it was a different part of the island than we visited) and 2) I wanted to visit somewhere sunny and warmer than Germany. 

We flew into Catania which is on the eastern side of the island. After picking up our rental car, we drove down to Syracuse where we had booked an Airbnb that overlooked the harbor. 

On our first full day, we walked around Ortigia which is the island connected to Syracuse by bridges. The views of the waves crashing were just what my heart needed. The day was perfectly sunny and warm. 

One of my goals in visiting Sicily was to eat arancini and cannoli. Check and check. We had arancini almost every day, but I did not have nearly enough cannoli. I would return to Sicily just for the food!

On our second day, we headed inland a bit to Caltagirone. The town is known for their pottery and we booked a pottery class through Airbnb. A master potter, pictured above, demonstrated some of the things they do to make pottery and then we had a chance to play around with clay and make two pieces. 

We each could make a mug/vase/jug using the coiling method and then a face mask. I made a vase, of sorts. The face masks were the silly part of the class. Pictured below is Charles' mask. At a certain point while making mine I came to terms with the fact that it was crazy and a bit ugly and just embraced it. 

For a few extra Euros, the shop will fire and glaze our pieces and ship them to us. The first firing takes two days, so there was no chance that they would be ready in time for our departure. I am looking forward to seeing the finished pieces!

Caltagirone has this long staircase in the center of town with each step featuring beautifully decorated tiles. 

Mt Etna is a dominating part of the landscape in southern Sicily and here you can see it from a park in Caltagirone.

You cannot visit Italy and not have a cappuccino for breakfast at least once!

Another excursion we took was to a nearby town--Noto. Noto is known for its Baroque architecture. We visited during reposo, the Italian version of a siesta, so it was quiet and sleepy. 

On Ortigia, you can see the ruins of the temple of Apollo. When we walked by one evening we saw this group of kitties hanging out on one of the columns. We actually saw stray cats in several areas of Syracuse and Caltagirone. 

On our evening stroll the day before departing, we could see Mt Etna smoking in the distance. It is hard to see in the picture, but it was neat to see in person. In this picture you can also see the steeple of one of Syracuses' churches that was constructed in the 60's which explains the style. 

Walking along the coastline was one of my favorite things and I wish I could have done more of it!  

Heilbronn

Sometime shortly after our move to Germany, someone recommended that we read A Tramp Abroad by Mark Twain. The person said Twain gave some interesting commentary on the German language which we would be able to better appreciate now that we lived in Germany. I downloaded the Kindle book (it was free!) and it had been sitting there waiting for me to read it for several months. I finally opened it up and started reading. I am still in the midst of finishing it as I had to take a break to read this month's book club read (The Alice Network), but from what I have read so far it's a delightful book. His writing reminds me of Bill Bryson's style.

Anyway, in the book so far he has talked about visiting Heidelberg and Heilbronn. Charles and I visited Heidelberg as one of the stops on our honeymoon river cruise. We will be visiting again at least once while we're stationed in Germany because it is pretty close, but we have yet to make it over that way. 

For one of our weekends this month, we were trying to find something to do. It has been a little more challenging with continued COVID restrictions, especially because of our incomplete vaccination status (incomplete with the new regulations here). I looked at the map and saw that Heilbronn was pretty close. We have driven by the Heilbronn exit many times, but I never really knew much about it. I suggested we take Suzie there for a walk and lucked out with a lovely sunny, albeit chilly, day. 

Heilbronn sits on the Neckar River which is something Twain talked about in the book. When we arrived in Heilbronn we parked at the Wertweisen Park. If you have ever lived in Europe, you'll appreciate this next bit. Parking was free and abundant! Charles routed our walk through the park and up along the river into Heilbronn's downtown area. As we got closer to the city center, we came upon a bridge that goes over the river from one side of the city to the other. It was LOADED with locks representing relationships. I have heard of this in Paris and have seen it in other cities. We spent a few minutes looking at the multitude of locks. I was impressed to see that many of them were professionally engraved. It gave it a better sense of purpose and intentionality. 

This tower was not far from the love lock bridge (that's what I am going to call it, at least). I read briefly about the towers in Heilbronn, but I am not going to attempt to give you their history because I don't remember it well enough. This tower had fun metalwork at the top so it looks like someone is walking a tight rope off the top of the tower. 

Twain mentioned the astronomical clock in the book. It was neat to see it in person and think about how many others have looked at it over the years. Right in front of the clock was a Saturday market, but we happened upon it as it was winding down. 

We spent some more time walking around the city center, doing some window shopping and watching Suzie scare pigeons into flight. We ended our stroll back through the park. It made for a great afternoon adventure.

Esslingen

At the end of December, we visited Esslingen for the first time. Despite being so close to where we live, we had not visited yet. I had been hoping to visit for their Christmas market which is a favorite for most people I have talked to, but it was cancelled for 2021. 

Even without the Christmas magic and gluhwein, Esslingen proved to be an idyllic town to walk around. 

We started our visit by parking and walking up a hill. Luckily Charles planned our route so that the hill was first with the rest of the stroll being easy. He knows me so well! The top gave us some great views of the city and we walked past the vineyard. Esslingen is home to Germany's oldest type of sparkling wine. We did not take the opportunity to try any on this trip, but hopefully when we have visitors we can pop in for a tasting. 

This is Esslingen's Rathaus. Isn't it a fun color? By this time, Suzie was pretty much done with the city walking. But she had some fun scaring the pigeons away in the market square. 

Peanut Butter Pretzel Magic Cookie Bars

We are dessert people, if you did not know that already. Like one of the contestants on the most recent Great British Bake-Off said, I don't just have a sweet tooth. I have sweet TEETH. 

I had a can of sweetened condensed milk and a couple sleeves of graham crackers in the pantry and thought "let's make magic cookie bars!" But I did not have any coconut. I scoured Pinterest for a variation that included items I actually had on hand and then checked my Beale Officers' Spouses' Club cookbook. It's one I hardly ever use and so sometimes I open it up and look through to justify keeping it. I found a recipe for PMS Bars which had pretzels and peanut butter chips instead of coconut. I used that recipe as inspiration and went off-book a bit for this my creation. 

Introducing my Peanut Butter Pretzel Magic Cookie Bars! They are sweet, crunchy and delicious. If you love the sweet-salty combo, then these will be right up your alley. I have NO idea how many pretzels or how much peanut butter I used, so if you make these use your best judgement. In my opinion, you cannot really have too much of either ingredient. 

Chocolate Peanut Butter Baklava

We had a very non-traditional Thanksgiving this year. We ate zero turkey, no normal Thanksgiving sides and no pie. I actually did not mind it. I had some traditional Thanksgiving meals twice prior to Thanksgiving, so that was checked off for me and Charles did not seem to really care. Instead, we made reservations at a local "American" restaurant where I had a steak and Charles had salmon. It was very delicious and relaxing. No stress about cooking and no dishes to clean up afterward. Of course, it is a lot easier to eat out when not in the United States where everyone celebrates Thanksgiving. For Germans, it was just a normal Thursday. 

In lieu of pie, Charles requested one of his favorite desserts--chocolate peanut butter baklava. I found the recipe a few years ago on Pinterest. I do not make it very often. It's an easy recipe, but because of the phyllo dough it is a bit of a process to put together. But if you love baklava and the chocolate-peanut butter combination, then you will very much enjoy this one! 

As the recipe states, it is extremely helpful to have everything ready at your workstation before starting the phyllo dough process. I have made this recipe by myself, but it is 100% better if you have a buddy that helps out. The way we do it is I butter and layer the phyllo and Charles adds the peanut butter and chocolate chips. Plus it is just more fun to do it together. 

One piece of advice, do not make this while hungry. Because we had an old person dinner scheduled (our reservation was for 4:30pm) and I made this prior to that, I was pretty hungry while preparing this. I have a tendency to get a little grumpy when I am hungry and I snapped at Charles over who knows what when we were starting to make this. For the health of your relationship, avoid baking while hangry. 

Sorry no pictures. But trust me, it is yummy!

 

Seiffen, Germany

For Veteran's Day weekend we visited Seiffen, Germany. We were originally planning to  visit Bolesławiec, Poland but neither of us were really looking forward to the long drive. Seiffen was a couple hours closer. In addition, I had to miss the spouses' club trip to Seiffen so it made sense to switch our plans and go together. 

Seiffen is known as the place where traditional German Christmas decorations like Nutcrackers, arches (or Schwibbogen) and pyramids originated. The locals, back in the day, were miners but after the mines were closed they had to find new ways to make a living. Their skills translated well to woodworking and thus the wooden decor and toy industry flourished. 

I did not really know what to expect from the town. It's a pretty small town without a lot of tourist information available. I had seen some pictures from a couple of the spouses who went on the spouse club trip, so I had a little bit of an idea but experiencing it in person was totally different!

Throughout the town you can find these really beautiful lights showing popular designs. This one is showing the angel motif. I'll talk about that a little bit later. Whenever we travel, we like to pick up an ornament for our Christmas tree. Our ornament from Seiffen is a mini version of one of these lights. 

We brought Suzie along with us on the trip to avoid having to find a pet sitter on a weekend when a lot of the military community were also traveling. Because of Suzie, we ended up on some walks we might not have taken otherwise. Charles took this picture on one of his solo walks with Suzie. 

We stayed in one of the apartments at the Spielzeughof. The location was perfect as it was just up a hill from the main drag with all the shops and restaurants. It was so peaceful! This little nutcracker lives in the apartment and was a nice piece of Seiffen to admire during our stay. 

Every European city has a church and this is Seiffen's. We did not check out the interior, but walked around the outside a bit on one of our walks with Suzie. You can purchase arches, pyramids and more that feature this church. The arch I really wanted had it on there. Unfortunately, the store employees were not sure if it was compatible with 110v so we chose not to buy it. I'll have to do some research about that and maybe purchase it another time.

On the main drag in Seiffen we saw lots of little huts like these serving anything from gluhwein, snacks and wooden decor pieces. This grouping was outside of the the restaurant (Holzwurm) we had dinner on Saturday evening. It was especially cute in the evening with the stars and string lights on. Our dinner was delicious, so I highly recommend making a reservation for when you are in town. 

I finally experienced gluhwein while visiting Seiffen! Gluhwein is a hot, mulled wine drink and can come in a variety of flavors. The first day in town I had a white wine with Amaretto version that was my favorite! I didn't snap a picture because it was served in a Styrofoam cup (not Instagram worthy). I also had some from a local bakery to accompany a pastry. That one was my least favorite. Our third cup, pictured here, was from one of the stands in town. We thought about keeping the mugs, but unfortunately they were from the 2019 Seiffen Christmas market and we didn't think it would be worth it. We returned for our 3 Euros back. 

Nestled amongst the shops and restaurants in town were large examples of the many pieces you can buy in the stores. This one shows the angel and miner. These were popular back in the day and you can still find them in the windows of the local homes. They can be illuminated with regular candles, battery powered candles or electricity. In the background of this picture, you can also seeing a couple in the top left. They move so they get closer and closer until they kiss. There is even a kissing sound that accompanies it! 

We purchased quite a few things on our trip. Seiffen had all the things my heart was dreaming about when it comes to German decor, especially for Christmas. We spent our first day in town visiting lots of shops (and there are LOTS of shops); we took pictures of pieces we liked and made a list of our top priorities to make sure we did not blow our budget. The next day, we went back to the shops to make our purchases. When we were planning our trip, I was worried that a three day weekend was going to be too long, but it was perfect as we were not rushed to make our purchase decisions and had plenty of time to visit as many shops as our hearts desired. 

One thing I wasn't necessarily planning on getting were the angel and miner. We saw so many cute ones throughout town and this is the set we decided on. I especially like the miner from this set (pictured below) because of his fancy coat tails. 

We have a Nutcracker collection that is displayed all year long. We went into our trip desiring a taller Nutcracker since our others are roughly the same height. Well, as you can see, we ended up with one that is quite a bit taller than our others. Charles wanted one that had the miner symbol on his hat and there were a few to choose between. 

Smokers are also a popular item in the shops. We have a couple that Greg gifted us with from his time living in Germany and we have two small ones that we bring out for Christmas. When we saw the beekeeper, we had to have him! Charles also loved the toymaker so we brought him home, too. 

We purchased a couple other pieces that we will put out for Christmas including a pyramid and a pinecone that is decorated with tiny pieces like a shepherd and sheep. It was very unique!

Chocolate Peppermint Sugar Cookie Bars

During the holidays, I love chocolate and peppermint anything! Peppermint mocha...yes please! Peppermint hot chocolate...mmmm! Peppermint sprinkled on homemade brownies...double yes! So when I saw this recipe for chocolate peppermint sugar cookie bars I knew I had to give them a try! They turned out really delicious, but you have to eat them pretty quickly because the cookie base hardens quicker than other cookies.