Epic Christmas Market Trip 2023

We embarked upon an epic Christmas market spree in December that took us through the Black Forest, Switzerland and Alsace region of France for a variety of markets. Let's dive in...

Rottweil

Rottweil is the oldest city in Baden-Wurttemberg and was the first market of our journey. It was along the route to Ravenna Gorge, so it was worth a pit stop. If you have driven in this direction you may remember the giant tower that looks like a drill bit. We still don't know what that tower actually is, but we can now stay we've been to the town where it's located. 

Rottweil has a small, quaint market that greeted us with local musicians, gluhwein and quesadillas (the latter being quite unexpected). Their mug celebrated the 30th anniversary of the market, so we made sure to keep one to add to our growing collection.

Charles tried the quesadillas and thought they were tasty enough. Good Mexican food is quite hard to find in Germany. I loved the quirky styling of their booth.

Ravenna Gorge

Ravenna Gorge often makes the top of Baden-Wurttemberg's Christmas markets. A few people I know had been in the previous year and warned me that, while it's magical, it is crowded. I was hesitant to go because that, but figured it would be good to visit while we had the chance. We went on the final day of the market and booked a ticket with shuttle pickup from Hinterzarten. 

The warning about the crowds was right on point. We opted for the 4-6pm time slot and it became more and more packed while we were there. It was shoulder to shoulder in some parts making it a little hard to navigate and view booths. I did not love it. But I had a delicious variation of gluhwein called a Schwarzwald Marie which included a cherry liqueur to mimic the flavor of black forest cake.

We stayed one night in Hinterzarten which was an adorable Black Forest town. It was a Sunday which typically means shops are closed in Germany, but a few gift shops were open so we visited before our shuttle to the Market.

B&B Zartenbach: Our hotel was very quaint and comfortable. We booked a very small room since we stayed for only one night; it was snug, but perfect for our short stay. The included breakfast was the perfect fuel for our onward journey towards Switzerland!

We arrived at the market before dark, so it was fun to see it transform as the darkness set in.

Konstanz

We had visited Konstanz earlier in the year to see Mainau Island, but did not explore the city very much. The market lines the lake and was a nice size, not too busy and had a variety of booths. I was excited to eat Tirol Knodel which reminded me of last year's epic Christmas market trip to the Dolomites.

Winterthur

Winterthur was our first market in Switzerland and was just a quick stop before arriving in Zurich. The market was very small, but we enjoyed some delicious apple rings with vanilla sauce. 

Zurich

Zurich boasts several markets spread throughout the city and we visited them all (I think). Zurich proved to have an impressive array of food options that made my heart very happy. To name a few: Indian, empanadas, tacos, arancini, Ukrainian, African, Portuguese, Asian, Swiss (of course) and so much more. 

I adored the Weihnachtsalle market the most. Throughout the market were little booths styled like living rooms where you could sit and enjoy your gluhwein and food. I, sadly, did not snag any photos, so you'll just have to take my word for it. This market was also close to the one located in the train station which exceeded my expectations, as well. 

25hours Hotel Langstrasse: I was in LOVE with our Zurich hotel! It was right down the street from the Weihnachtsalle and train station markets which made it super convenient for this trip. Aside from that, the hotel was so fun! It was decorated with a modern-vintage mix and had some really cool special touches. For example, there was a Polaroid camera in the room. You could buy film in the little lobby shop and use the camera around town. This hotel is now one of the benchmarks that I'll use to judge future hotels on our travels.

I have been dreaming about arancini since visiting Sicily. When I saw it at the train station market, I had to have one!

Breakfast on our first morning in Zurich was spent at Babu's Bakery and Coffeehouse. The hotel offered a breakfast add on, but it was a bit pricier than we wanted, so I opted to look for other spots in the area. Charles hates waiting in line for a restaurant, but I took a chance on this place despite the almost guaranteed wait. It was well worth it for this breakfast sandwich and my latte.

Our second morning was spent eating breakfast at Bank which had really cool latte art! I had a croissant breakfast sandwich that was good, but not as drool worthy as the previous day.

Mulhouse

After stopping in Basel, Switzerland and being very much disappointed in their market, we continued to the Alsace region of France for the next round of Christmas markets. Our base for the next two nights was Mulhouse (it's pronounced very differently from how it looks for English speakers). 

La Maison Hotel Mulhouse: I had some high expectations for our hotel in Mulhouse. The website made it seem very hip and funky (we were worried that we were too "square" to stay there). But it was kind of a mixed bag. The common areas like the lobby and breakfast room were fantastically decorated for Christmas. If you enjoy a vintage, maximalist vibe, these rooms will make your heart sing. Our room was a bit of a disappointment in comparison, but still very comfortable and right around the corner from the Mulhouse Christmas market. 

The Mulhouse market was on the smaller side, but in the shadow of the beautiful cathedral. The town is beautifully lit up for the market and hosts a little Christmas train that plays music as it drives you around the city. We could hear the train's music from our hotel room as it drove by. It was adorable!

Mulhouse is also where I discovered that vin chaud blanc is far superior to gluhwein. I have since reached out to my local community for a recipe so I can recreate it at home.

A slight letdown about the markets in Alsace is they use plastic cups versus mugs for the hot wine. They were beautifully designed, but harder to hold with the hot beverage inside.

We found a booth selling Canadian poutine at the Mulhouse market and ordered the Authentique poutine. It hit the spot!

Eguisheim

Eguisheim is a small town in the Alsace region. I had visited back in March with friends and loved it. With it all decked out for Christmas, it was just as magical. The market is very tiny with just a small selection of booths. But we enjoyed some vin chaud and window shopping. 

Side note: The Eguisheim vin chaud booth charged a deposit (pfand, if you're familiar with the German term) for the plastic cup. However, they did not take the cups back so we were stuck with it.

Turkheim

Sadly we did not fully get to experience Turkheim's market. When I was researching for the trip I had noted that its market opened at 11am. We arrived around 12:30pm, but sadly it did not open until 2pm. We walked around the area and saw the shuttered whimsical and colorful booths. We did get to say hi to some sheep, so it wasn't a total loss.

Colmar

I visited Colmar twice in 2023, each time with different sets of friends. Colmar is an adorable town and often tops the Christmas market lists. There are a variety of markets spread around the town. Since I had been before, Charles left me in charge of navigating around which was a huge mistake. I am directionally challenged to say the least. We ended up walking in circles the whole afternoon. 

Charles enjoyed a meal in the gourmet market. Aside from a yummy croissant bagel sandwich and tasty hot spiced apple juice, I was not in love with the Colmar market. It was just too spread out and crowded for my taste.

We had hoped to visit at least one more market on our 2023 Christmas Market spree, but it was unpleasantly rainy on the day of our departure from France, so we visited the Cora grocery store to stock up on some French goodies like crepes, butter and soap before heading home to relax after so much excitement. 

I hope you have a chance for your own Christmas market spree in 2024! 

Innsbruck, Austria

The next leg of our December getaway was to Innsbruck, Austria. Each time I visit Austria I fall more in love. 

Innsbruck has a myriad of markets scattered around the town. We visited in the evening and, because it was midweek, it was not super crowded. We enjoyed the sparkling lights and holiday spirit. 

One of the market streets is dedicated to fairy tales which was one of my favorite parts! 

Gluhwein, of course! The vendors had a variety of mugs from different years. I liked this mug, but it was from 2019 so we didn't keep it. 

Innsbruck is home to Swarovski crystal, so a Swarovski crystal tree is the centerpiece of this market. 

I love, love, love folk art so when I saw there was a folk art museum in Innsbruck I added it to our itinerary. I am just so impressed with how people took everyday objects and made them beautiful. 

The folk art museum is connected to the Hofkirche, so we visited that, too. Just a little tip (because we were confused), to visit both you'll need the combo ticket. The regular ticket only allows you into the Hofkirche. You cannot buy a ticket just to the folk art museum. 

The hands down best part of visiting Innsbruck was our hotel! We stayed at DasMEI which was located just outside of Innsbruck in a town called Mutters. This is the view from our room!!! I was ready to move in and never leave. The breakfast buffet was delicious. Parking was free and the tram stop was just up the road for an easy trip into Innsbruck. 

Our room overlooked the nearby town called Natters. This is the church we could see from our balcony.

Strolling around European towns and seeing the variety of churches never gets old. This is the church in Mutters.

Christmas Markets of Northern Italy

After a break from travel due to Charles' work schedule, we resumed our vacation schedule with a trip to Christmas markets in the South Tyrol region. Most people think of Germany for their Christmas market visits, but with Northern Italy's German roots, they have some markets, too! 

We visited mostly to check out Bolzano (Bozen for the German spelling) which is Italy's oldest and largest Christmas market. But we also went to Merano, Brixen and Sterzing. 

I love searching for hotels. For our Northern Italy vacation, I chose Napura Art & Design Hotel. It was situated between Bolzano and Merano and surrounded by apple orchards. The included breakfast, free parking and beautiful rooms were a delight. Plus, they were dog friendly so Suzie was able to tag along! Charles made use of the sauna on one of the nights. I really should have, but spent my downtime working on schoolwork. (I'm so ready to be done with this program because having schoolwork while traveling is a little stressful!)

Before visiting any markets, we drove to Lana to walk along one of their trails. The path has sculptures to admire along the way, but we veered off the sculpture trail a bit so we missed quite a few of the pieces. The area had a dog park that Suzie enjoyed for a little while. The views of the mountains from all around us was fantastic! I kept imagining what it looks like in the spring and fall. I bet it's even more gorgeous!

Now onto the main reason for the visit... Christmas markets! Our first market visit was in Merano. The area lined the river which gave us some amazing picture opportunities! It was a beautiful, sunny day. We enjoyed some gluhwein (also known as vin brule); this was my favorite mug of regular weisse gluhwein. We had a a few snacks, browsed the booths and purchased a couple souvenirs. 

The next day it was time for the main event--Bolzano! Remember, this is Italy's oldest and largest Christmas market so we were expecting something pretty cool. They had some cute photo opportunities around the market including this one. The figures are from a company called Thun. I had never heard of them before, but their figures are proudly displayed and the ornament we chose was a Thun angel. 

Sadly, our expectations of the market were bigger than the market itself. My guess is that pre-COVID it was larger. It had maybe 30-40 booths and felt small. It probably did not help that it was chilly and gloomy. Charles had some gluhwein and I had some hot chocolate. We shared a chocolate covered pretzel. Otherwise, it was disappointing. We went inside the church shown behind me in this picture and we could have visited a number of museums in town, but I just wasn't feeling it. 

After the letdown of the Bolzano market, we stayed close to the hotel for dinner. The German-Italian spot called Restaurant Oberspeiser was down the road and ended up being very quaint and cozy. The food was tasty, too! We chose the knodel platter for two which consisted of 8 different knodel. Yum! 

Our third market in Italy was Brixen. It was a sunny, beautiful day! Knowing this market was going to be smaller than Bolzano, we went into it with lowered expectations. But this market was very cute! They had musicians playing from the stage in the center of the market and the view of the church steeple was charming. We tried Bombardino which is Italian's version of eggnog. It was very sweet, but I would not order it again. 

The market was filled with groups of school kids at the time we visited. They crowded around some of the booths which made it a little difficult to shop. I think they were also playing a scavenger hunt game. A group came up to ask us questions, but after learning we did not speak Italian they scuttled away to the next person. 

I did not see a lot of street art during our visit, but spotted this along our walk from the parking garage to the market. 

Our final Italian Christmas market was in Sterzing. This was a small market where I purchased some Alpaca socks. The booth owner promised me they are warm and they did not disappoint! We also enjoyed a hot apple drink with Amaretto.

Polenta is popular in this part of Italy, so I tried polenta with goulash at Sterzing's market. The meat could have been a bit more tender, but it was warm and filling. 

The area was beautiful and we loved seeing the snow capped mountains from pretty much every vantage point, but I would not necessarily recommend visiting the area JUST for Christmas markets. The markets were charming and had some good eats. They are a lovely bonus, but not a main attraction.

Seiffen, Germany

For Veteran's Day weekend we visited Seiffen, Germany. We were originally planning to  visit Bolesławiec, Poland but neither of us were really looking forward to the long drive. Seiffen was a couple hours closer. In addition, I had to miss the spouses' club trip to Seiffen so it made sense to switch our plans and go together. 

Seiffen is known as the place where traditional German Christmas decorations like Nutcrackers, arches (or Schwibbogen) and pyramids originated. The locals, back in the day, were miners but after the mines were closed they had to find new ways to make a living. Their skills translated well to woodworking and thus the wooden decor and toy industry flourished. 

I did not really know what to expect from the town. It's a pretty small town without a lot of tourist information available. I had seen some pictures from a couple of the spouses who went on the spouse club trip, so I had a little bit of an idea but experiencing it in person was totally different!

Throughout the town you can find these really beautiful lights showing popular designs. This one is showing the angel motif. I'll talk about that a little bit later. Whenever we travel, we like to pick up an ornament for our Christmas tree. Our ornament from Seiffen is a mini version of one of these lights. 

We brought Suzie along with us on the trip to avoid having to find a pet sitter on a weekend when a lot of the military community were also traveling. Because of Suzie, we ended up on some walks we might not have taken otherwise. Charles took this picture on one of his solo walks with Suzie. 

We stayed in one of the apartments at the Spielzeughof. The location was perfect as it was just up a hill from the main drag with all the shops and restaurants. It was so peaceful! This little nutcracker lives in the apartment and was a nice piece of Seiffen to admire during our stay. 

Every European city has a church and this is Seiffen's. We did not check out the interior, but walked around the outside a bit on one of our walks with Suzie. You can purchase arches, pyramids and more that feature this church. The arch I really wanted had it on there. Unfortunately, the store employees were not sure if it was compatible with 110v so we chose not to buy it. I'll have to do some research about that and maybe purchase it another time.

On the main drag in Seiffen we saw lots of little huts like these serving anything from gluhwein, snacks and wooden decor pieces. This grouping was outside of the the restaurant (Holzwurm) we had dinner on Saturday evening. It was especially cute in the evening with the stars and string lights on. Our dinner was delicious, so I highly recommend making a reservation for when you are in town. 

I finally experienced gluhwein while visiting Seiffen! Gluhwein is a hot, mulled wine drink and can come in a variety of flavors. The first day in town I had a white wine with Amaretto version that was my favorite! I didn't snap a picture because it was served in a Styrofoam cup (not Instagram worthy). I also had some from a local bakery to accompany a pastry. That one was my least favorite. Our third cup, pictured here, was from one of the stands in town. We thought about keeping the mugs, but unfortunately they were from the 2019 Seiffen Christmas market and we didn't think it would be worth it. We returned for our 3 Euros back. 

Nestled amongst the shops and restaurants in town were large examples of the many pieces you can buy in the stores. This one shows the angel and miner. These were popular back in the day and you can still find them in the windows of the local homes. They can be illuminated with regular candles, battery powered candles or electricity. In the background of this picture, you can also seeing a couple in the top left. They move so they get closer and closer until they kiss. There is even a kissing sound that accompanies it! 

We purchased quite a few things on our trip. Seiffen had all the things my heart was dreaming about when it comes to German decor, especially for Christmas. We spent our first day in town visiting lots of shops (and there are LOTS of shops); we took pictures of pieces we liked and made a list of our top priorities to make sure we did not blow our budget. The next day, we went back to the shops to make our purchases. When we were planning our trip, I was worried that a three day weekend was going to be too long, but it was perfect as we were not rushed to make our purchase decisions and had plenty of time to visit as many shops as our hearts desired. 

One thing I wasn't necessarily planning on getting were the angel and miner. We saw so many cute ones throughout town and this is the set we decided on. I especially like the miner from this set (pictured below) because of his fancy coat tails. 

We have a Nutcracker collection that is displayed all year long. We went into our trip desiring a taller Nutcracker since our others are roughly the same height. Well, as you can see, we ended up with one that is quite a bit taller than our others. Charles wanted one that had the miner symbol on his hat and there were a few to choose between. 

Smokers are also a popular item in the shops. We have a couple that Greg gifted us with from his time living in Germany and we have two small ones that we bring out for Christmas. When we saw the beekeeper, we had to have him! Charles also loved the toymaker so we brought him home, too. 

We purchased a couple other pieces that we will put out for Christmas including a pyramid and a pinecone that is decorated with tiny pieces like a shepherd and sheep. It was very unique!